A Winter Wonderland in Flagstaff, Arizona

Governor Doug Ducey recently declared Flagstaff “Arizona’s official Winter Wonderland.” When thinking of a winter escape, palm trees, golf, and sunny, warm days typically come to mind to most people. While the southern portion of the state is still a tropical oasis this time of year, a winter vacation to northern Arizona is a fantasy for anyone who loves snow, sledding, and skiing.

Before moving here, I had no idea that the city places near the top of the list of cities with the highest snowfall. With over 100 inches per year, there are plenty of winter sports to enjoy for months on end. As someone who loves snow, frosty temps, and pretty much all winter sports, this was a bonus for me. I loved snowshoeing and skiing at the Nordic Center for months on end.

This charming mountain town sees 4 distinct seasons, including a long winter season that is often extremely cold and snowy. The weather, plant life, and ambiance you will find here is strikingly different to what you will find in Phoenix and Tucson. I love that I can ski amongst ponderosa pines one day and then hike amongst palms the next as Phoenix is just a 2 hour drive south. It keeps things interesting for sure. When I tire of the snow, I can simply take a drive south and enjoy completely different amenities. That being said, the scenery is so gorgeous here with the mountains and pines that most of the time I don’t want to leave!

While most tourists flock here in summer, the ski resort draws a lot of traffic as well; I’ve waited in line for hours to get up Snowbowl Rd at times. The Narnia-like vibe here cannot be topped so it’s worth it to me. So if you love snow, I really recommend renting a cozy cabin and enjoying the top notch amenities. There is no better wintry escape so close to Phoenix and Tucson.

2015 is off to an extra snowy start: as of early January the city’s snow totals are already 20 inches above the average. A large multi day storm the 1st week of January (31 inches) places this year’s snow event on the list of Top 20 Multi Day storms. It would be hard to beat the 84 inches that fell over consecutive days in 1967, but who knows – maybe 2015 is the year due to strong El Nino conditions? This was a pretty crazy experience for me. It took us over a week to dig our car out. That being said, we enjoyed some fun in the snow for weeks afterwards.

Update: In 2019, a record breaking 35.9 inches of snow was recorded at the airport. This is the highest single day snowfall event.

Arizona’s Winter Playground

I am not surprised that the city claimed the title of Arizona’s winter wonderland. In addition to an impressive amount of snow each season, the city offers numerous areas for winter recreation. These include: a ski resort, a Nordic skiing area, and multiple sledding parks. Also most local parks are suitable for cross country skiing, snowshoeing, sledding, and snowmobiling. I know that I had a blast snowshoeing at Snowbowl, Ft. Tuthill, and Buffalo Park.

Most popular winter recreational areas

Snowbowl – Arizona Snowbowl, located 7 miles from the city at a base elevation of 9200 feet, is a ski resort on the San Francisco Peaks. Roughly 260 inches of snow accumulate each winter season, and thus, the resort generally stays open until mid April.

As one of only 3 downhill skiing areas in the state (and being the closest one to Phoenix), it is pretty popular. They offer a 2300 ft vertical drop and more beginner’s terrain than any other ski resort in the Southwest.

Arizona Nordic Village – The state’s only nordic center offers 40km of groomed cross country skiing trails, with plenty of options for both beginner and intermediate skiers. At an elevation of 8200 feet, the center typically receives more than enough snow to operate consistently throughout the winter season.

You will find a variety of trails to choose amongst, all of which take you through the beautiful wooded ponderosa pine forest. My first visit here was only my second time ever cross country skiing. I really enjoyed the scenery and overall experience; it has now become one of my favorite winter hobbies. The peaceful views of the ponderosa pine forest really made the experience even more special; what a gorgeous place!

With great beauty comes great crowds!

Unfortunately, all this snow means insane crowds every weekend, especially as hundreds and hundreds of snow lovers come up to ski and escape the Sonoran desert heat. Be prepared for hefty traffic along Highway 180, which leads to Snowbowl and The Arizona Nordic Village.

With 2 major winter recreation areas, so many Phoenix locals coming to see the snow, and only one road to get to these areas, you can expect some hefty backed up traffic. I have waited in line for hours at a time; yes, it’s that popular! One time on Christmas Day, we literally waited almost 3 hours. I really love the trails at Snowbowl so am willing to put up with a bit of hassle.

All of these areas tend to get overcrowded each weekend, both with locals and visitors from areas like Phoenix (2.5 hours away), Tucson (4 hours away), Sedona (just a quick half hour drive), and anywhere else lacking measurable snow accumulation. It can be pretty frustrating for the locals as the traffic usually stretches out to the middle of town. Luckily there are a few less crowded options for those seeking a more natural, secluded setting.

Free & secluded winter recreation options

If you are looking to save some money and avoid the crowds, you will want to skip the ski resort & nordic center and instead consider the alternatives I have featured below. These areas are much less crowded and you will be able to bypass the pricey trail fees (just bring your own skis/snowshoes or rent them).

The scenery is just as beautiful, if not more so as they are located in a more isolated setting. Note: if you do not have your own skis or snowshoes, you can rent them for an affordable price at Ski Haus or Babbitts. If you live in the area, I recommend buying your own as they will easily pay for themselves after just a few uses. Mine came in handy as I have probably saved hundreds of dollars thus far.

Fort Tuthill County Park

Fort Tuthill is a wonderful 4 season park, located just 3 miles south of the city. For some reason, this beautiful, quiet park is not as popular as other parks in town, allowing you to enjoy some peaceful snowshoeing/skiing by yourself in the gorgeous ponderosa forest setting.

The multi use FUTS (Flagstaff Urban Trail System) runs through the middle of the park and provides several miles of paved path for year-round recreational use. I lived about 5 min from this nature oasis and regularly came here to escape the crowds. I loved biking, walking, and running here, but nothing was a special as snowshoeing after a big storm. Rarely do we get to enjoy untapped nature to ourselves today; I consider myself lucky to have lived in such close proximity.

It really is a winter wonderland this time of the year, especially post storm when the pines are covered with snow and the trails are fresh and fluffy. If you continue far enough, you will even come across a nice viewpoint of the mountains capped with snow.

The snow tends to last longer here due to the heavy tree coverage. The remote setting is really what makes this place so special. As an added bonus, there are no fees associated with the park, unlike the Nordic Village, so if you have your own equipment, you are all set! As a bonus, there are a number of great sleddings hills here.

Buffalo Park

Buffalo Park is another great option for winter recreation, a bit more crowded that Ft. Tuthill, however, nowhere near as busy as the Nordic Village or Snowbowl. This park offers the best views of the San Francisco Peaks (the state’s highest mountain range), which are even more mesmerizing capped with snow. A short 2 mile section of the FUTS loops around the park. The flat terrain is perfect for a snowshoe hike or cross country skiing adventure.

Although you may see a handful of local skiers or snowshoers out enjoying the picturesque mountain setting, I never felt overwhelmed. And, once you venture out a bit, the crowds really start to thin out. Overall, it’s a great park for winter recreation due to the beautiful mountain views, easy nature of the trail, and free access.

Veit Springs and Aspen Nature Loop

Both of these quick, mostly flat trails along Snowbowl Rd. are perfect for snowshoeing. Veit is hidden around half way up the 7 mile road and doesn’t see much traffic any time. Aspen is located at the top of the road near the ski resort but sees most of its’ traffic in summer. Neither trail sees much winter traffic. The higher altitude (~8500 ft) means lot of snow for snowshoeing and skiing. I pretty much enjoyed these trails all winter long.

Veit Springs, a pine and aspen lined 1.5 mile trek, offers the most attractive low-key vibe. The trail is just long enough to give you a good workout, although nothing too intense. This is my favorite trail in the area as the dense tree coverage gives it a New England-ish vibe. I used to live in Massachusetts so it reminds me of the beautiful trails that I once frequented. The mix of aspens and pines is nice and the pines hold the snow after a storm due to the lack of sunlight.

I use this trail often for snowshoeing because it is mostly flat. High altitude means there is plenty of deep snow for snowshoeing. You can’t beat a nice serene walk here right after a winter storm. Luckily, tourists tend to skip this one, so you will feel as if you are completely lost in your own private winter wonderland.

The Aspen Nature Loop is another one of my favorite snowshoeing destinations. At just a over a mile and a half RT and almost completely flat, it’s another great snowshoeing option. It’s like Veit Springs with the added bonus of spectacular snowy mountain vistas. This is one of my personal favorites for hiking and snowshoeing thanks to the wide open mountain views. The forest is not as dense, but there are groves of lovely aspens.

For anyone who doesn’t ski or snowshoe, the drive up Snowbowl drive is really incredible. At the summit, there is a wonderful mountain vista which is spectacular at sunset. Be aware that chains are often required to drive up the road. You will be turned away if you don’t have them and the roads are bad.

Typically, there is someone there informing you if you need to put chains on to continue up. I had no experience with any of this before moving here but I now keep a set of chains in my trunk just in case. I’ve had to use them a few times so they come in handy.

Best time to snowshoe

The snow usually hangs on for a while this high up, so you don’t have to rush out here the second after a storm. It’s actually better to wait sometimes so the drive up Snowbowl Rd is safer. Although these trails are both relatively quiet, you will still have to take the congested Hwy 180. Snowbowl Rd traffic backs up frequently. I recommend visiting as early as possible (before the skiers arrive) to beat the heavy mid morning/afternoon traffic.

Backcountry passes

Be aware that you will need a backcountry pass to use these trails in the winter. I would guess this is probably part of the reason why no one uses them much. The pass is free and tends to keep the crowd levels down.

Where to get passes:

• Ranger District Office: 5075 N. State Route 89 (8am-4pm weekdays, no holidays)
• Coconino National Forest Supervisor’s Office: 1824 S. Thompson St (8am-4pm weekdays, no holidays)
• Agassiz Lodge at the Snowbowl: Saturdays and Sundays from 9am-11:30am

Kachina Village: an underrated gem

Kachina Village is a small neighborhood located about 7 miles south of the city. There is little congestion in the area, just great views of the uninterrupted forest and a few houses. There are some nice cabin rentals here if you are looking for somewhere quiet and cozy to stay. I actually rented a house here for a few years and enjoyed the peaceful setting and easy access to town amenities.

Here, you get more of the feel of being out in the country rather than in the middle of a bustling tourist town. There are several uncrowded parks in the area which are great for sledding, snowshoeing, and cross country skiing.

Fortunately, I lived in this area so I just grabbed by snowshoes and headed down the hill by my house to a beautiful little oasis called the Pumphouse Wash Nature Trail. It’s gorgeous in any season, but you really can’t beat the pines topped with snow after a blizzard. The pics below were all taken after a wonderful Christmas day blizzard.

Oak Creek Canyon

One of my favorite experiences to date was a drive down Oak Creek Canyon after a winter storm. It’s a rare treat to see Sedona’s beautiful red rocks covered with snow. If weather permits, I recommend hiking a trail or 2. A few of my favorites include: Devil’s Bridge, Soldier’s Pass, Fay Canyon, and the Little Horse Trail! You can read more about my Sedona hiking adventures and plan your desired route.

If weather permits, I recommend a stroll along the West Fork trail. It’s one of Sedona’s most popular tourist hikes during the summer and fall months. In the winter, much of the trail is not accessible, but you can walk a small portion and enjoy incredible views of the creek and red rocks surrounded by snow. It’s an incredible sight to see and I am glad I had the opportunity to live so close.