The Petrified National Forest: More than 225 Millions Years in the Making

The Petrified National Forest, located nearby Holbrook in the Northeastern portion of Arizona, is named as so for its’ large quantities of petrified wood. Since moving to Northern Arizona, Mike and I have been exploring so many of the natural wonders and historical sites. This area of the country is so interesting with so many unusual places that you won’t find anywhere else. This forest is a great daytrip from Flagstaff, a perfect base for anything adventure related. To date, this has been one of my favorites tourist attractions of the many day and roadtrips I’ve taken from the city. If you are a history buff, I definitely recommend putting a visit on your bucket list. Along with seeing ancient wood, you will also get to see petroglyphs and old Rt. 66 attractions.

A little bit of history on the park

In 1906, the forest became a national monument. During the Triassic Period (which came just before Jurassic and is therefore known as “Dawn of the Dinosaurs”), the land which now stands as a desert, was flowing with rivers, streams, and humongous trees. The temperature was more tropical in nature. It is impossible to imagine that dinosaurs once roamed in an area much different than that which stands today. Paleontologists continue to study this forest today. They have identified many fossils of smaller dinosaurs no more than human size. If you want to learn more, I recommend checking out the visitor’s center first thing on your visit. It’s nice to know some of the history before you begin exploring.

What is petrified wood?

This type of wood forms when trees are buried under sediment, thus causing mineral enriched waters to replace the original plant material. The result is a fossil. Million of years ago, a volcano knocked down the trees. The trees sunk and the volcanic ash produced silica in the water which replaced the wood with quartz.

As you spend your day at the park exploring the wood, you will notice a variety of different colors. These brilliant colors arise from varying levels of manganese, iron, and carbon in the wood. The process of petrification turns the tree into a rock made up almost entirely of quartz, which gives it a gem-like quality.

Sadly, thieves have stolen many pieces of wood, especially in Crystal Forest. The park has very strict rules prohibiting any collecting. In fact, if you see anyone collecting, you can anonymously report them. If you want your own piece of wood, you can buy a piece in the gift shop.

During your visit, the top thing you will want to do is take the scenic 28 mile drive around the park. Aside from seeing ancient wood, you will also get to explore ancient petroglyphs, take in the stunning beauty of The Painted Desert, see the historic location where Route 66 once passed through the park, and walk a few short nature trails.

Hiking Trails

On the scenic drive, you have the option of hiking 7 different maintained trails. I recommend completing at least a few to get more of an upclose look at the wood. You will also get to enjoy some stunning views of the painted desert. I have provided a list of the different trail options. Fortunately, most of them are pretty short so we decided to check them all out.

Agate House (2 miles) – Located near the Rainbow Forest Museum, this trail takes you to an ancient pueblo (made out of petrified wood) that was occupied about 700 years ago.

Long Logs (1.6 miles) – Also located near the Rainbow Forest Museum, this trail is home to one of the largest collections of wood in the forest. I recommend combing Long Logs and Agate House together to form one 2.6 mile trail.

Giant Logs (0.4 miles) – Located just behind the museum, this trail is a great option as it is short, easy, and takes you past some of the biggest and most colorful logs in the forest, including “Old Faithful” which is 10 feet wide!

Crystal Forest (0.75 miles) – This short trail’s name comes from the amazing crystals found naturally in the petrified wood. In my opinion, this trail features the best bang-for-your-buck experience. I loved seeing all the wood upclose and there are some nice views of the painted desert to enjoy. For anyone not up for a big challenge, this would be my top pick.

Blue Mesa (1 mile) – This trek is just a mile and there are some really nice views of the badlands. We also found out at the visitor center that paleontologists have discovered many plant and animal fossils here which is pretty cool.

Puerco Pueblo (0.3 miles) – This short loop trail takes you to the remains of a 600 year old pueblo.

There are 2 overlooks which offer a decent view of various ancient petroglyphs. One of the things I have really enjoyed since moving to Arizona is seeing all these ancient drawings at various parks. It’s a really cool piece of history that we all get to still enjoy today.

A summer solstice marker used to mark the passage of the seasons.

Painted Desert Rim Trail (1 mile) – This unpaved path offers one-of-a-kind views of the beautiful Painted Desert. Bring your camera for this one!

Backcountry trails

As an alternative, if you are feeling adventurous, are in great shape, and want to explore the scenery in a more remote setting, you can enjoy one of the park’s backcountry trails. Most of these are a bit lengthy, so be sure to set out early enough in the day and bring lots of water. Check out the forest website’s listing of the different off the beaten path trails to find the right one for you.

Points of Interest along the Scenic Drive

Rainbow Forest Museum – This is a great place to start your journey as you can explore exhibits on prehistoric creatures and petrified wood. Also, I recommend starting with the free film where you can learn more about the park’s history. From here, I recommend hiking either the Giant Logs Trail or the Agate House trail, or both if you have the time.

Jasper Forest – This stop is home to one of the largest collections of wood in the park. I thought the overlook of the painted desert was so amazing; probably the best view of the park in my opinion. If you would like a more hands on experience, I recommend completing the 2.5 mile backcountry Jasper Forest hike for a better view.

Agate Bridge – This 110 foot log was formed naturally by the forces of water. Sadly, it will eventually be destroyed by this same force according to a park sign.

Crystal Forest – To see the most colorful rocks in the park, definitely stop at this overlook. We learned that the colors are a result of the silica and minerals that infiltrated the wood. Unfortunately, many pieces have been stolen over the years. Regardless, there still remains a very large concentration to enjoy.

As you stroll around the path, you will see a rainbow of different colors, varying based on the different combination of minerals. Some pieces appear to have been cut with a saw, however, this is actually a natural process.

Blue Mesa – Take in the beauty of the wood from several overlooks or walk the short 1 mile trail to get an even better view of both the fossils and the gorgeous surrounding landscapes.

Newspaper Rock – From an overlook, you will be able to see more than 650 unique petroglyphs. There are free telescopes available to get an even better view. It’s interesting to see how the ancient people communicated.

Route 66 Alignment – A 1932 Studebaker marks the spot where Route 66 once cut through the park. I’ve been checking out so many interesting Rt 66 attractions since moving here. Arizona is home to the longest remaining stretch of the original road so it’s a great destination for history buffs. You can check out my Mother Road guide for more info on tourist attractions, ghost towns, and photo opps.

Puerco Pueblo – This pueblo was occupied more than 600 years ago. Today, you can take a short walk along a trail to view the remains. Also, you will be able to view more ancient petroglyphs via one of 2 overlooks.

Whipple, Nizhoni, Pintado, and Lacey Points – These overlooks provide stunning views of the Painted Desert. What a gorgeous otherworldly viewpoint! I recommend stopping at each for the full experience.

Painted Desert Inn– This historic lodging spot was once a rest area for Route 66 travelers. Today, you can check out the historic exhibits which includes the remains of the old restaurant. From here, I also recommend a hike along the Painted Desert Rim Trail, which provides more diverse views of the Painted Desert.

Hiking the beautiful Painted Desert Rim Trail

Despite much stolen wood over the years, the park pretty much remains the same. In fact, the park has worked hard to capture images of the forest back in the day in comparison to today. As you will be able to see during your visit, the views are almost identical today. If you compare photos from 80-100 years ago in the exact same spot, the photo appears to not have changed, with the wood still in the same spot. With everything changes so rapidly in the last few decades, it’s cool to explore these never changing historical gems.

Collecting the wood is illegal!

If you want your own piece of history, you can purchase petrified wood that has been legally collected. The gift shop contains all sorts of pieces, small and large, some very expensive depending upon the size. Take note of the signs; you will see them posted all over the park for good reason.

Tips for a great visit

*Visit in the winter if possible. The temps are much too hot in the summer (often exceeding the 100’s) and there are way too many crowds. Be aware that winters are often much colder than expected, so dress in layers and always bring a jacket. I had to wear a pretty heavy jacket on our January visit.

*Bring a water bottle and drink up. Desert climates are harsh and drying. You really need to stay properly hydrated and also keep in mind electrolyte balance (bring with a few salty snacks or Gatorlyte). There are water stations at both visitor centers to fill up.

*Fill up your gas tank in advance. There is only one station near the park, and it is often closed. You will likely being doing several hours of driving to get to the park, along with a 28 mile drive when you arrive. It’s a long tiresome day, but worth it in my opinion to see a living piece of history.

*Bring with a few snacks and eat a quality breakfast beforehand (check out some of my favorite local cafes in Flagstaff). There is not much to eat near the park.

*Leave early in the day, especially during the shorter daylight winter months. A scenic drive, several hikes, and exploring all the points of interest really adds up.

*Bring with a camera. There are so many scenic overlooks to capture stunning photos.

Directions and Pricing

Location: Visit the Forest website for directions from your location.

Fees: Pricing is $25 per car (includes a 7 day pass)or $15 per person/bicyclist. I recommend purchasing an annual America the Beautiful pass which is $80. A bit pricey, however, it includes entry at any national park/monument for 1 year. It easily pays for itself after just a few park visits if you live in a western state with easy access. Pricing current as of 2025. Please check the website for updates and special events.

The park is open everyday except Christmas. Hours vary based on season. Remember that Arizona does not practice daylight savings, and thus follows mountain time year round. From Sept 20-Oct 31, park roads are open from 7am to 6pm, and from Nov 1, 2015-~February 20 roads are open from 8am to 5pm.