Bear Jaw: A High Altitude Adventure on the San Francisco Peaks
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Bear Jaw is one of the most jaw dropping trails in Flagstaff, Arizona, an area known for its’ abundance of gorgeous mountainside year-round recreational opportunities. Mike and I have hiked so many beautiful fall trails in our years living here. Honestly, I consider this a prime leaf peeping destination right up there with New England. One of our favorite fall hikes is the Bear Jaw trail. As stunning as the scenery is, this hike is no easy feat. Starting at an elevation of 8550 feet, you will climb over 1000 feet to an ending altitude of 10,350 feet at Waterline Road, where you will be treated to some pretty incredible leaf peeping for all your effort.
Being located on the north slope of the San Francisco Peaks (the highest mountain range in the state), the trail offers some pretty incredible mountain vistas. From Waterline Rd, you can hike 2 miles to the Abineau trail to make it a long 7 mile loop hike, or simply begin your 2.5 mile return trek downhill for a total hike of about 5 miles.
If you are in great shape and accustomed to the high altitude, then hiking the loop is an absolute must, both for the stunning vistas, incredible leaf peeping, and for the peaceful nature experience. It’s harder than Inner Basin (the go-to fall hike in this region), but also considerably less crowded.
A cool & colorful trek through the mountains
The landscape consists of a mixed forest of both aspens and pines, making it a beautiful hiking choice in any season. A summer hike takes you past a lush green forest with wildflowers of every hue sprouting up all over the place. At this time of the year, I love hiking the high altitude mountain trails to escape the hot summer temps and harsh sunlight. Because the elevation in town is only 7000 ft compared to 8500+, temps can be 20 degrees warmer.
Not that Flagstaff gets that hot (daytime temps rarely climb past the mid 80’s), however, the intense sun plus 80 degree weather can create quite unbearable conditions for long and intense hikes. Bear Jaw and all other high altitude trails offer a respite from the heat. Actual air temps are cooler plus the dense forest blocks most of the sun.
A leaf peeping hotspot
Flagstaff is a winning destination if you love the autumn months. I really loved everything about the fall season here. I lived in Massachusetts for several years and I think the color and access to nature here is just as spectacular. If you are living in Phoenix craving those cool temps and colorful fall leaves, you have to make the 2 hour drive up here. This trail is one of just many incredible fall hikes in the northern portion of the state. Daily highs are in the attractive mid 60’s- low 70’s range. It’s just the perfect weather for hiking. Keep in mind temps will be cooler at high altitude by about 20 degrees, so layer up. Sometimes, I need a North Face jacket and other times just a heavy sweatshirt.
As soon as autumn arrives, all the high altitude trails are loaded with the brightest aspens you will ever see. When the temps start dropping and the leaves start changing, Phoenix locals start coming in droves to see the spectacular fall foliage that they will never find at home. Really, I can’t blame them! It does make the roads pretty crowded, but also keeps all the local businesses going.
Fortunately, most of the tourists head over to Inner Basin (another stunning leaf peeping trek into the mountains) and Snowbowl. So you get the advantage of being totally immersed in shimmering golden autumn leaves, while also enjoying a peaceful nature experience far away from the tourist crowds.
Enjoy some pictures of the fall foliage we have taken over several autumn seasons. Sometimes we timed our hike right at peak, and other times just missed it. I love how the aspens take on more of an orangish tone on cloudy days and appear more yellow when skies are blue.
As a local, this Leaf O Meter came in handy. I used it to accurately plan when to hike certain trails. All the leaves change at different times, so you can use this to plan accordingly.
A rough, yet scenic drive to the trailhead
Part of the reason the crowds stay away from this one is likely due to the very rough and rocky journey along FR 418 required to get to the trailhead. A high clearance vehicle is highly recommended if coming from Hart Prairie Road and required if coming from FR 550 (Lockett Meadow).
While our Prius made it coming from Hart Prairie, it was a very difficult and slow drive which took at least 40 minutes. I can’t believe we even made it to be honest. On the bright side, the drive itself is as stunningly beautiful as the hike and you will no doubt be reaching for your camera the entire time. Here are some great viewpoints from Hart Prairie Road.
One of Flagstaff’s best hikes
If you have the extra time to spare and the fitness ability, I would suggest adding this one to your itinerary. It’s a hard trek, but also very beautiful and quiet. Whether your vacation falls in the spring, summer, or fall, this is definitely an underrated hike worth looking into. It’s a wonderful experience for nature lovers, hikers, photographers, and leaf peepers alike.
Northern Arizona is a beautiful region of the country with lots to offer in terms of natural beauty. Since moving here, I have been absolutely stunned by how many gorgeous places are so easily accessible. It’s crazy that this area does not receive much press. Unfortunately, many visitors fail to leave the over commercialized downtown and never see anything but the inside of a shop or restaurant!
To see the real beauty of the area, you will need to hit the trails. If you are staying here as the base for exploring the Grand Canyon, I recommend planning some time to see more natural wonders and historic sites. You can check out my guide to Northern Arizona attractions for full details on the best-of-the-best. I recommend at least a week to see some of the beauty.
Tips for a great hike
Bring plenty of water. You will want to stay hydrated to avoid mountain sickness. Experts recommend staying for a night or 2 to get acclimated before any physical activity. I always use a backpack with a built in hydration bladder. This way I am set on water and also have plenty of extra space for storing essentials like an extra jacket, sunblock, sunglasses, car keys, snacks, etc.
Prepare for random weather changes. Summer monsoons are always a possibility and I’ve been caught in a few even when the skies looked clear beforehand.. In the fall, a freak snowstorm is very possible.
Keep in mind this is a very hard high elevation hike with a gain of over 1000 feet. Even if you hike just the Bear Jaw portion (5 miles total) and not the full Abineau loop, it will be difficult and time consuming. Plan on at least a half day including driving time.
Check the forecast. Avoid hiking during the stormy months. Lighting related accidents are not that uncommon. In fact, I recently read in the book Over the Edge: Deaths in Grand Canyon that this area has more lightening related deaths that anywhere else.
Start this hike early in the morning. It’s lengthy and you do not want to get stuck in the forest after dark. Plus, the earlier you arrive, the easier it will be to find parking in the tiny lot.
If looking for spectacular fall foliage, keep in mind that you will need to complete almost the entire 2.5 mile journey to see the colors. The trail starts off through the ponderosa pines and eventually winds through more and more aspens. It’s very beautiful but the leaf peeping starts later on.
If you do not feel up to a long, strenuous hike, then you should check out a shorter, easier trail like the Aspen Nature Loop or Veit Springs at Snowbowl. Both these trails are gorgeous and easily accessible, so do not feel like you need to complete a strenuous hike to enjoy the amazing aspens!
Eat before you hike
Eat a quality breakfast prior to your hike. Eating extra carbs is one of the tactics to prevent altitude sickness. Also pack plenty of snacks in your backpack for the hike itself. If you are looking for a quick, budget friendly snack pre-hike, I recommend Late for the Train. They serve the best espresso drinks in town and have the tastiest burritos for just 5 bucks. Other decent choices include The Toasted Owl (I love their breakfast tacos) and Brandy’s (big portions at a great price at this retro Rt. 66 diner).
Directions & other info
Location: About 25 miles outside of Flagstaff. If coming from the West (US 180), you will want to drive NW out of Flagstaff on 180 for 19.5 miles and then turn right on Hart Prairie Rd (FR 151). Drive 1.5 miles until reaching FR 418 where you will turn let. Next, drive 3 miles until reaching FR 9123J and turn right. Drive another mile or so until reaching the trailhead (high clearance vehicle highly recommended).
If coming from the East (89), you will want to drive NE of Flagstaff onto 89 for 12 miles and turn left on FR 552 (directly across from the turn off for Sunset Crater). Turn right at FR 418 and drive about 7 miles to FR 9123J. Make a left onto FR 9123J and drive about a mile or so to the trailhead.
Fees: There is no fee to park at the trailhead.
Amenities: No bathrooms or water at the start of the trail.
Dog friendly: Yes, leashed ok.
