Get Out of Dodge: Back to the Wild West in Dodge City, Kansas
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I am sure we have all heard the saying “Get out of Dodge” at one point or another. I always knew it meant to get out of a dangerous place but I wasn’t sure of the origin of the phrase. Baby boomers (like my father) are more than familiar with this idiom made popular by the long running western, Gunsmoke, which aired from 1955 to 1975. This show turned this phrase into an iconic saying which now means to get out of an uncomfortable situation quickly.
This classic western took place in the 1890’s in Dodge City, Kansas (during our visit we learned that the show actually filmed on a set in L.A.). I’ve watched a handful of episodes when traveling back home to visit my folks. If you’ve never seen the show before, U.S. marshall Matt Dillon (played by James Arness) used this line to get outlaws to leave the town or face imprisonment.
If you are a fan of this show and/or old west gunslingers, you should have a great time exploring “the Wickedest Little City in the West.” During your visit, you will be able to browse through historical exhibits at the Boot Hill Museum, enjoy a drink at the Long Branch Saloon, watch gunfight reenactments, and much more.
You’ll get to see one of the largest collections of historic firearms and read lots of historical information about famous outlaws and lawmen who lived in or passed through the city including: Wyatt Earp, Bat Masterson, and Doc Holliday.
You’ll get to see some historic artifacts including Bat Masterson’s 19th century elgin pocket watch.
There is this really cool historical exhibit at the museum where you can watch Wyatt, Bat and others talking to each other’s portraits.
First off, a little history about the city. You’ll learn a lot more at the museum, but here’s a brief introduction for anyone interested.
The history of Dodge City
The town’s origin dates back to 1872. It’s located along the Santa Fe National Historic Trail, a route that connected Missouri to Santa Fe. From 1821 to 1872, pioneers used this trail to transport goods. Today, just 9 miles west of the city you can see the Santa Fe Rut Trail site which still remains 150 years later.
Fort Dodge, built to protect travelers and traders from Indian attacks, was established in 1865 on the Santa Fe trail. Dodge was founded the next year with the first home being a ranger’s 3 room sod house.
The arrival of the Santa Fe Railway & the buffalo trade boom
The town became a trade center for buffalo hunters. It was the Buffalo capital for many years until the mass slaughter killed them off. There are a number of exhibits at the museum where you can learn more about the buffalo industry. There is even a simulation where you can feel what it is like to be in the center of a buffalo stampede.
Railroads became common in Kansas following the end of the Civil War. In 1872, the first the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe Railroad train arrived in Dodge.
Front Street was alive with general stores, restaurants, a barber shop, a blacksmith shop, and grocery stores. The town became a trade center for buffalo hunters. While the original Front Street burned down in the mid 1880’s, you can walk down a pretty accurate recreation today at the Boot Hill Museum.
“The Wickedest Little City in the West”
The city, devoid of law enforcement, became known as “The Wickedest Little City in the West” due to the high prevalence of gunslingers. The Boot Hill Cemetery was established as railroad workers, buffalo hunters, and soldiers fought. The museum is built on the real cemetery, although most of the bodies were moved to Maple Grove cemetery according to the city. At the museum, you will be able to see a recreation of the cemetery.
I recommend reading more about the town’s history before visiting. If you don’t have time, you will learn much more at the museum. I would recommend planning at least an hour and a half, more if you want to really get into the exhibits. During the summer months, you’ll need even more time if you plan on enjoying the gunfighter reenactments and variety show.
Mike and I were embarking on a cross country drive from Cleveland to Phoenix and this was a convenient stop on our route. We have visited numerous other wild west towns like Tombstone (it was an interesting and quick daytrip while we were living in Tucson) so we figured we would check the museum since we were in the area anyways.
Our visit fell during the slower spring season. Hotels rates were cheap and the town was pretty much empty. If you are looking to avoid crowds, definitely plan your visit this time of year. Just know that the variety and gunfighter show will not be open yet.
Go back to the wild west at the Boot Hill Museum
The museum is a bit pricey at $20 per person, so it depends how interested you are in history and the old West. For all the history buffs out there, it is located on the grounds of the Boot Hill Cemetery which is pretty cool. There are a number of entertaining interactive exhibits for the kids and plenty of informative history exhibits for the adults.
The “People of the Plains” exhibit is pretty interesting. This will be the first section you will walk through on your self guided tour. You can browse artifacts and read more about the Plains Indians, railroads, buffalo hunters, the cattle industry, the Santa Fe Trail, and more. There is a lot of into to take in, so you could definitely spend a lot of time here just reading everything. It’s definitely a history lesson! Plan more time if you like reading every detail.
The museum opened in 1947 and has continued to expand since then. In the 1950s, the Fort Dodge Jail (est in 1865) arrived. The historic Front Street recreation was completed in 1970. Throughout the 70’s the following buildings were added to the museum: the Santa Fe Railway depot, a 1915 one-room schoolhouse, an 1880 carriage/blacksmith shop, and an 1879 cattleman’s home. These buildings are not recreations like the others lining Front Street.
Tours are self-guided. You will start and end in the gift shop. You can take as much time as needed to explore everything. During the summer months, you can purchase a Marshal pass which includes: a country style dinner, gunfight reenactment shows, and a variety show. The Long Branch variety show is the longest running the US. The show includes a blend of comedy, music, and dance with special performances by Miss Kitty and saloon owner Chalkley Beeson.
Hollywood and the Wild West
I liked the western media exhibit. It was fun sitting in a 60’s designed living room with Gunsmoke airing in the background. You will find a lot of memorabilia, all donated by cast members according to the staff. I didn’t grow up with this show, but I assume those who did would love this exhibit more.
Front Street
I felt like I was transported back in time to the old west as I strolled down an old wooden boardwalk on historic Front Street. I found it quite similar to walking down Allen Street in Tombstone. They did a great job recreating the feeling of this time period. I really felt like I was in an old western movie.
Besides taking pictures and exploring the replicas, you can try homemade fudge in the general store, enjoy a sasparilla at Long Branch Saloon, enjoy an old fashioned ice cream treat in the Beatty and Kelley Ice Cream parlor, and much more.
The replicas:
- General Store – You can taste some homemade fudge, buy some touristy souvenirs, and browse around some antiques. The lady we chatted to here was really nice and gave us info about the town. We found out she was originally from the same area as us which was pretty cool. I really loved the old antique register.
- The State Bank of Dodge, established in 1892 by George M. Hoover. You can see historic teller windows and safes.
- Morris Collar’s Dry Goods Shop. These shops typically sold clothing, fabric, hardware, and household goods.
- Tonsorial Parlour: A barbershop for cowboys.
- Zimmerman Hardware features carriage goods and a gunsmith station.
- Dr. McCarty’s Drug store – In the old days, a drug store was equal to today’s pharmacy. McCarty opened the first hospital in 1905.
- Saratoga Saloon – One of the more upscale saloons of the time.
- J. Collar – The city’s first undertaker
- Alhambra – A historic saloon – although not as famous as Long Branch featured in Gunsmoke and National Lampoon’s Vacation.
- Beatty & Kelley Restaurant – The best part of the self-guided tour comes near the end when you can treat yourself to a sundae or float at this old time parlor. The hard packed ice cream was so cold and delicious on a hot day – the kind that doesn’t melt easily which is just my style. We enjoyed the most delicious chocolate milkshake and a scoop of butter pecan.
The following real buildings relocated here:
Hardesty house – A cattleman’s home from 1879 moved to the museum in the 70’s.
Blacksmith shop – 1880’s era shop moved to the museum in the 70’s.
Fort Dodge Jail – The original jail used to house lawbreakers, est. in 1885. The jail came to the museum in the 50’s. I liked that you could walk inside and explore. The cells were pretty small and I am sure completely miserable.
First Union Church: This 19th century Catholic church arrived via a donation in 2004 and was restored in 2009. It was built in 1874 and served as the first church in the area.
Long Branch saloon
One of the main reasons we wanted to visit was to have a drink in the same bar that Chevy Chase and the Griswold family visit in the 80’s classic Vacation. We are big 80’s movie buffs – we visit filming sites around the country.
On their long road trip from Chicago to Wally World, Dodge City is one of the Griswold’s stops. If you have seen the movie a time or 2, then you know Clark calls the bartender a knucklehead, yellowbelly, tenderfoot, and underpants. Unfortunately, we found out through a staff member that the movie did not actually film here. A bit disappointing but still cool to see. Instead, a replica movie set was actually created on a Warners Brothers backlot in California. He told us that no movies are allowed to be filmed in Dodge.
Boot Hill Cemetery
At first, Mike and I were a bit confused as our Tombstone tour took us past a cemetery of the same name. We found out that this is a generic name that they use in Western states for cemeteries where outlaws and gunslingers “died with their boots on.” Pretty cool – I never knew this before! This is why I love visiting all these historic attractions – you learn so much!
According to the museum, none of the most famous people were buried in this cemetery but rather mostly unnamed outlaws. We saw some grave markers as we strolled around.
Prickly ash bitters
Prickly ash bitters were medicinal natural tonics frequently advertised as being a cure all for various diseases. Native Americans used the berries and bark in the old days for everything from joint problems to bronchial diseases.
Seasonal entertainment
As our visit fell in mid May, we did not get to enjoy any gunfight reenactment shows or take our pictures in the Old time photo parlour. I’ve always wanted to do this so I was a bit disappointed.
A massive gift shop
There is a really big gift shop you can browse through either before or after your visit. You will find everything from cheesy souvenirs, to beautiful artwork, to sasparilla, and even holiday decorations. We found a pretty cool Gunsmoke photo for my dad.
What else to do in town?
- Visit the Gunfighters wax museum. You will see Wyatt Earp, Billy the Kid, and other lifesize figures.
- See the colorful murals on Main Street.
- Take pics by the various historical monuments throughout the museum grounds and around Main Street.
Here are a few colorful murals in the downtown region
Historical monuments around the museum
Location, hours, & parking info
Address: 500 W Wyatt Earp Blvd.
Parking: There is a large free lot
Hours: 8am-8pm (Memorial-Labor Day), 9am-5pm (1-5pm on Sundays) during the off season
Pricing: $20 for adults, $18 for seniors and veterans, $14 for kids ages 5-12
Online only Marshal deal: Includes access to the museum, the gunslingers show, the variety show, and a country style dinner for $50 per adult and $38 for kids. Summer only.
Where to stay?
We stayed in the Best Western because it was cheap and we were traveling with pets. It wasn’t anything to write home about but convenient and affordable. Amenities included an indoor pool and hot tub, as well as a free breakfast. The rooms appeared to be clean and we were just a short drive from the attractions.
