3 Days in Flagstaff, Arizona: Winter Edition

I recently wrote my guide for an active summer weekend getaway in beautiful Flagstaff, a gorgeous mountain community located just 2 hours north of Phoenix. While this area is becoming a popular summer vacation destination for outdoor adventure types and has long been a base for exploring the Grand Canyon, most tourists don’t realize that it is also a wonderful winter getaway. 

Fortunately, I had the opportunity to rent a gorgeous rustic home here for several years. I explored the Northern Arizona region inside and out. Winter was one of my favorite times of the year. Number 1, I love snow and winter sports. And number 2, it’s a really peaceful and reflective time of the year (with half the tourism of the crazy summer season). Sure, the city still sees plenty of traffic with the big Snowbowl ski resort drawing traffic, and hoards of Phoenix snow lovers clogging up the highways to play in the snow. But, once you step foot on the isolated snowy pine trails, you truly are in Narnia.

During my time here, I spent much of the winter snowshoeing at various city parks, as well as truding up Snowbowl (oftentimes with chains on my tires) to enjoy the beautiful high altitude mountain trails. And the amount of hours I spent cozying up in local coffeehouses and checking out the foodie scene is right up there as well. The shear amount of local businesses is another great aspect of this small mountain community.

Enjoy my guide to a weekend of fun in one of the best mountain getaways in the West. The San Francisco Peaks (Arizona’s highest mountain range) look so stunning this time of year. 

Notes:

• Keep in mind that any outdoor activity at high elevation is that much harder.
• Read up on altitude travel tips and never go out past your comfort level. The air is thinner meaning less oxygen, which makes cardio much harder. Many elite athletes train in this area.
• Expect much colder temps and always wear layers. Drink extra water and prepare properly. 
• Keep in mind that this area can get a lot of snow. The storms can be massive and the snow sticks around for a while at high altitude (it melts quicker in town where the elevation is 7000 ft vs 8000+ i the mountains). I lived through a lot of big storms including a massive 3 foot in 3 days blizzard where it basically took a week to dig out my car! That being said, snowshoeing was a blast for weeks afterward.

• Be prepared for possible road closures. Keeping chains in your car is a must.
• Check the ski resort and Nordic center for trail conditions before you head out. The Nordic Village is often closed due to lack of snow.

Day 1: Cozy up in a cabin rental & check out downtown Flag

2:00pm. Check into your rental. I recommend a cozy rental in Kachina Village, especially this time of year when the pines look gorgeous covered with snow. I lived in a rustic, woodsy house just up the street from the gorgeous Pumphouse Wash Natural Area and enjoyed the peaceful vibe and easy access to downtown. Rentals are available on sites like VRBO and check in typically begins around 2 or so. You can sort rentals based on amenities like hot tubs, fireplaces, and price. Kachina is located about 7 miles south of Flagstaff, so a nice quiet choice. If you have the time definitely take a walk at Pumphouse Wash (recently renamed Matt Ryan County natural area).

3:00pm: Head into town for a cozy cup of coffee and lunch at a local restaurant. You will find no shortage of local dining options here. In fact, when I first moved here I used to see local residents driving around with a sticker on their cars which read “don’t PHX FLG” meaning don’t turn Flagstaff into a giant suburban chain like Phoenix. As the years went by, some of the charm has disappeared as the city continues to build, however, it’s still a charming getaway compared to most places in the country.

For lunch, I would recommend something cozy this time of year. One of my favorite places on Rt. 66 is Salsa Brava. This restaurant has been around for a while – it was even featured on Diners, Drive Ins, and Dives. You can enjoy about anything here – from typical Mexican fare to stuffed sopapillas (“What Guy Ate”) and even a Native American inspired Navajo taco. I really love the endless chips and salsa bar. For the historical value and top notch food, this is a winner.

4:00pm: Shop and explore downtown. I really love the little Main Street in this town. If you are coming  from a busy suburban metro like Phoenix, you should appreciate the change. Summertime this is a popular tourist congregation area, but wintertime is more low-key.

I recommend stopping for a coffee break at Rendezvous in the historic Monte Vista hotel, a haunted property which opened in 1927 (read more ghost stories on their website). It’s really cozy this time of year. If tea is more your thing, stop by Steep Tea Lounge. They offer so many creative flavors, my favorite being the Witch’s Brew.

Also, if you don’t own snowshoes, you will want to stop by the sporting goods outfitter, Babbitts. You can rent snowshoes here for tomorrow morning’s adventure. Pricing is relatively cheap compared to other areas out West.

7:00pm – If you are looking to stay out later, check out Starlite Lanes, an old school bowling alley just outside of downtown on Rt. 66. Another option is to grab a drink FLG Terroir wine bar. They carry a wonderful selection of wines (25+ wine by theglass options) as well bottled beer and small plates. I love the ambiance here.

9:00 Cozy back up at your rental. Many of these cabins have extra amenities like a hot tub, which would be extra nice this time of year. Otherwise, play a board game, cozy up with a cocoa and a movie, and just relax a bit. Tomorrow is going to be a long day snowshoeing so you will want to rest up a bit.

Day 2: Snowshoeing & cross country skiing in the country’s largest ponderosa pine forest

Note: As I mentioned earlier, you will need to bring with your own snowshoes or rent them the day prior at Babbitts. Also, be sure to wear proper winter boots and waterproof snowpants.

7:00am: Cozy up at White Dove coffeeshop. This is one of my favorite winter picks because it’s cozy and far away from the touristy downtown. The vibe is super local and I love the cozy fireplace. They serve great drip and espresso drinks. Their coffee is so flavorful: really rich without any burnt aftertaste. They all serve some pastries, but I recommend a full breakfast before intense activity.

9:00am: Enjoy a big breakfast at Brandys, another favorite featured on Diners, Drive Ins, and Dives. It’s a bit busy and the ambiance is nothing spectacular, but the food is really good. I recommend the Hash Brown Medley for a nice filling meal that will keep you going for a long workout. I’ve also heard that the Swedish Oat Pancakes are awesome but haven’t tried them yet.

10:00am: Drive up Snowbowl Rd. Note: Chains are sometimes required after a storm. I always keep a pair in my car just in case. You will be told via a sign if you need chains to proceed. If you are new to the area and the roads are bad, you may want to opt to snowshoe at a county park like Buffalo or Ft. Tuthill (much easier to get to and they usually clear the roads in town faster).

11:00am: Snowshoe along the gorgeous Aspen Nature Loop Trail. This is one of my favorite summer hikes, but nothing compares to the solitude you can experience in the dead of winter. At 8000+ feet, the snow sticks around here for a long time after a storm. You will get in a great workout and enjoy serene views of the mountains and snowy pines. It’s so inspiring to get lost in nature this time of year. You can check out more of my favorite snowshoeing trails if you have extra time.

1pm: Enjoy a hearty lunch and some hot soup. After a long snowy adventure, you will probably be ready for lunch. I recommend going with something cozy and casual since you will probably be dressed in snow attire.

Wildflower Bread is an awesome regional chain which is similar to Panera Bread (but much better). A comforting bowl of soup on a cold winter day is such a treat. They offer several rotating options daily. My favorites are the Broccoli Cheddar and the 12 Vegetable. They also serve great salads, sandwiches, and their bread is awesome. The Wildflower 2 is a similar deal to Panera’s “You Pick Two.”

2:00pm: head back to your cabin to relax for a bit, maybe have a cup of coffee or soak in the hot tub. Sit by the fireplace, read, etc. If you are lucky enough, maybe you will get to see some snow falling down. It’s one of the snowiest cities in the country with 100+ inches per season on average, so odds are in your favor. We saw many excited Phoenix tourists rent out a cabin near us to enjoy the snow, constantly checking outside to see it build up. For anyone from the desert, this can be a really exciting experience. It’s nice to find a city that actually appreciates the winter instead of merely trying to get through it!

3:00pm: Head over to Kendrick Watchable Wildlife Center for a quiet winter walk. This is a beautiful underrated park where you can see wildlife, enjoy some trails, and simply take in the barren beauty of the winter scenery. You can bring your snowshoes with if there is enough snow on the ground. I see so many elk here especially during the quiet winter season (on several occasions, I’ve seen dozens at a time). It’s a beautiful place to simply enjoy nature and usually not overcrowded with tourists. It’s located on Hwy 180 about 40 min outside of town.

5:00pm: Enjoy a gorgeous sunset at the base of Snowbowl. The winter sunsets are nothing short of amazing. And the drive up is just as fabulous. Considering picking up a cup of joe and enjoying a slow ride (assuming roads are clear).

6:00pm: Treat yourself to dinner at a great local restaurant. Downtown, you have a lot of casual pubs like Beaver Street Brewery and Lumberyard to choose amongst. If you are looking to avoid the tourist traffic, La Fonda is another gem of a Mexican restaurant. For something a bit fancier, consider driving out to the Twin Arrows Casino for dinner at the beautiful Zenith Steakhouse. I really love the ambiance here and the food and service are terrific. You can check out my full local dining guide for more ideas.

Day 3: One more morning of wintry fun 

7:00am: Enjoy a cup of Joe at Late for the Train, the top roaster in the area. They also serve delicious breakfast burritos. This shop used to have an awesome location on Hwy 180 leading up to Snowbowl and the Nordic Center, but it shut down. Fortunately, you can still visit the downtown cafe.

8:00am: Head over to the Arizona Nordic Village for a beautiful day skiing amongst the ponderosa pines. This is a really beautiful place to ski and they have a lot of terrain for beginners. My first time skiing here was a great experience despite not skiing for years. I really loved the enchanting ponderosa pine setting. We came back many times to enjoy what felt like our own private winter wonderland.

Alternative: There has to be enough snow to open the trails at the Nordic Village. If there is not enough snow on the ground, you can opt to take a wintry walk at Fort Tuthill or Buffalo Park, 2 great local parks which are not that far from Kachina Village. Both parks are beautiful snowshoeing destinations. Even if there is not enough snow, you can put boots on and enjoy the mountain and pine scenery. 

Fort Tuthill is home to a nice section of the Flagstaff Urban Trail system where you can easily get in a few miles uninterrupted. Buffalo Park is located near downtown and features a 2 mile loop which is pretty easy in intensity. At Ft. Tuthill, it’s easy to get lost in the beautiful pine scenery, while Buffalo features the big wide open mountain vistas.

Also, if you like downhill skiing, you have to check out Snowbowl. I am scared of tumbling down the mountain, so I stick to cross country for now, but I’ve heard nothing but great things about this ski resort. According to the ski resort website, they get over 260 inches of snow per year and have the most beginner terrain in the Southwest. Also they have a 2300 vertical drop!

10:00am: Grab lunch before checking out. If you go with the Nordic Center or Buffalo (both are close to downtown), you can enjoy some delicious pizza and apps at Beaver Street Brewery, a tourist favorite. This lively pub also serves Southwestern style apps like Elote dip and comfort dishes like Chicken Pot Pie and Florentine Ravioli. If you end up going with Fort Tuthill, I recommend Delhi Palace, a wonderful Indian restaurant that serves the best Saag Paneer and Veggie Korma. Too bad they got rid of their awesome lunch buffet, but it’s still one of my favorite local dining options in town.

If you have extra time and there is no heavy snow in the forecast, I recommend a day out in the red rocks of Sedona. A scenic drive known as Oak Creek Canyon connects Flagstaff to Sedona. I will be putting together my weekend itinerary for Sedona as it is 100% a vacation destination in and of itself, so you don’t want to cram everything into a single weekend.

If you do decide to venture into the enchantment of the ancient rocks, here’s my starter guide to the most scenic places and must-do’s around town. If you are lucky, you may have the rare opportunity to see the red rocks topped with snow.

On a side note, there are a lot of unique places to explore throughout the state. I recommend exploring a bit more if you have the time. While Flagstaff is definitely my favorite place to enjoy the great outdoors, there is much more to do in this state including: dining at world-class restaurants, visiting top notch museums, exploring historic Western towns like Tombstone, visiting natural wonders like Horseshoe Bend, exploring 3 fabulous national parks, and more. Check out my Arizona Travel Guide for some suggestions.