Vacation Spotlight: Pagosa Springs, Colorado

One year, Mike surprised me with a birthday trip to a beautiful little town in Colorado home to a healing hot springs resort. We came across a hot springs many years ago on a long roadtrip and always wanted to check out another one (now that we live out West this is pretty easy to do). Pagosa Springs is a gorgeous small town in the Four Corners region of Southwestern Colorado. Because it is surrounded by the beautiful San Juan Mountains and home to a number of natural wonders, it is the perfect choice for anyone seeking a scenic and adventurous vacation destination.

I like this area so much that I have taken several very long road trips from both Tucson and Flagstaff – trust me, it is worth it to enjoy a soak in the healing mineral springs and explore trails in the wonderful surrounding national forest. If you live within a reasonable roadtrip distance, I highly recommend planning a getaway here especially if you are into the outdoors. If you are coming from a hot area, it should be even more of a treat as the high altitude (7000+ ft) means cooler summer temps.

Unlike more touristy Colorado destinations, the small town vibe and easy access to nature allows for a more low-key vacation experience.

The San Jan National Forest

The awe-inspiring San Juan mountain range comprise the backdrop and the San Juan river flows right through the middle of town. The massive San Juan National Forest spreads out for almost 2 million acres. The mix of aspens and pines ensures gorgeous scenery whenever you visit. Fall is really spectacular to hike as the leaf peeping is amazing. The brilliant golden aspens dramatically pop out amongst the green pines.

Lots of wildlife call the forest home. Although the last grizzly was spotted in 1979, they are thought to possibly still inhabit the region. There are dozens of hikes within this gorgeous forest as well as numerous other recreational opportunities.

Additionally, the Durango and Silverton Railroad is a quick daytrip. The route passes through portions of the forest that are not accessible any other way which is pretty cool. I really loved this ride and would definitely recommend adding it your bucket list. I would place this on my list of most scenic attractions in the Southwest, easily.

Pagosa sits at an elevation of 7000 feet, which means beautiful cool summer days and frequent winter snow storms. I think summer and fall are the best times to visit especially if you are into hiking as the temps will be just perfect this time of year. Of course, if you are into winter sports there is plenty to do including skiing at Wolf Creek. Basically you can enjoy the outdoors year-round here pretty much the same as you can in the rest of the state. The quieter, less touristy ambiance is what makes it so special.

Where to Stay

First off, you will need a place to stay. There are a few dozen options in town including the very popular Springs resort. Unfortunately, this hot springs resort often books out months and advance and can be really pricey. Fortunately, there are some nice rustic lodging options in town which are much better than The Springs. I really loved staying at the rustic Elk Trace Lodge Bed and Breakfast.

This is by far the most relaxing B &B I’ve ever stayed at. The massive 8000 acre property is located out in the country and surrounded in every direction by pure wilderness. You can even see Pagosa Peak (a prominent 12,000+ foot mountain) from the inn’s deck. The gorgeous National Forest backs the property and the views are just terrific.

As Elk Trace is a working ranch, there are horses and cows on-site so the overall environment is just really relaxing and natural. Additionally, there is a gorgeous lake about 1/2 mile down the road. During your stay, take a walk over and enjoy a breathtaking sunset over the mountains.

The inn owners are incredibly friendly and even went out of their way to make breakfast for us super early before our train ride. They go out of their way to entertain guests and can help you with area activity recommendations. Nightly wine and 24 hr coffee are provided for guests. Some of the nicest people I’ve ever come across while traveling!

The cabin is gorgeously decorated in a rustic theme which fits in perfectly with the overall outdoorsy nature of the region. Being out here in this secluded natural setting really is the perfect opportunity to rejuvenate and enjoy the great outdoors. Each room is tastefully decorated in a cute mountain theme. There are just a handful of rooms, so the inn never feels overcrowded – allowing you to enjoy a truly relaxing getaway in the mountains.

A full hot breakfast is provided each morning in the cozy rustic living area. In the winter, a roaring fire takes center stage, and during the summer months you have the option of enjoying your meal on the beautiful wrap around deck, surrounded by gorgeous pines. You may even see an occasional black bear due to the super secluded setting.

Although the inn is located a bit away from town, it’s totally worth staying here for the private natural setting. The drive into town is just 20 minutes or so. I can’t say enough good things about this wonderful property.

Things to do: Hiking & soaking

There is so much to see and do here particularly if you are a fan of hiking, relaxation, and in general being surrounded by beautiful mountain views in every direction. As someone who loves fitness, mountain scenery, and and hot springs, I give it an A+. I’ll go over a few of the highlights.

The Springs

This town is home to the deepest hot springs in the world. The Springs Resort is home to 25 healing hot springs. Not only are the pools super relaxing, but the views of the river and surrounding pines are also spectacular. Soaking in these pools has been treasured since ancient times as the mineral content of the water is said to heal many different diseases, especially those pertaining to the muscles and joints.

Due to the high sulfate content, the waters are known to be a powerful all over body detoxifier. The experience is so much different than sitting in a hot tub at a hotel. The scenery surrounding you is so beautiful and it feels so much more natural without the heavy scent of chlorine. It’s also nice knowing that you are getting some beneficial minerals in while you relax.

Pool temps range from a cool 83 degrees to over 110 degrees on average in the “Lobster Pot.” All pools are fed from “The Mother Spring” which is 144 degrees. There are a number of pools in the 100-105 degree range, which is the most perfect temperature range for relaxing on a cold night.

As you soak, you can literally feel all your stress melting away. Really, it’s impossible not to relax here. And for some reason (most likely no easy access as the small Durango airport is very pricey and Denver is hours away), this resort and the area in general does not see nearly as much traffic as you would expect.

The on-site spa is extraordinary as well. There are so many little extras included in your treatment (like eye pillows and hot towels) which are not typically included with the base price at most spas. Plus, you get free admission into the springs with any treatment (which is normally $30+ bucks), so really it’s a steal. As someone who works out hard most days of the week, I appreciate the much needed relaxation.

Treasure Falls

There are many wonderful hiking trails to choose amongst including a few short treks for first time visitors. Treasure Falls is one of the best choices for tourists as the hike to get to the falls is easy, relaxing, and incredibly scenic. The towering 105 foot tall waterfall is accessed via a short steep stroll of just under a half mile.

For anyone on vacation looking to take it easy but still enjoy world-class views, this is as good as it gets. The drive to get over here is picturesque as well with relaxing views of the open countryside. If you really prefer to avoid any hiking on your vacation, you can still view most of the waterfall via a scenic overlook near the parking lot.

For those who can’t hike, even the views from the parking lot are extraordinary enough to warrant a visit!

Guided horseback tours: A great alternative to hiking

Signing up for a guided horseback tour through the beautiful San Juan Wilderness is a great alternative to hiking. If you are new to horseback riding, I recommend checking out Diamond Hitch Stables. The staff are incredible with newbies and will ensure that you are comfortable with the horses and riding techniques before taking off. I hadn’t rode a horse in years before this trip and I felt so comfortable with our guide. He was so patient and taught us so many things. Plus, he had so many interesting stories to share especially regarding bear sightings.The horses are all well-trained, healthy, and well taken care of.

They offer a number of options, from 30 minute rides to all day tours. The 1.5 hour ride is a nice half day activity which I think is basically the perfect amount of time to enjoy the wilderness. This way you still have time to check out other area activities instead of spending the entire day just doing one thing.

The 1.5 hour trail ride follows a picturesque trek through the woods. It’s very relaxing and very secluded. It’s so quiet in fact that black bears often make appearances. We did not encounter any wildlife, although the guide carries a gun to scare them off as encounters are pretty common. If you can sign up for a fall ride, the colors are really beautiful this time of year. A golden hue is cast over the mountains courtesy of the brilliant autumn foliage of the aspens. The people here are all wonderful and will give you lots of tips and tricks if you are new to riding horses so newbies to horseback riding do not be afraid to sign up for a tour!