Catskills mountains in New York

Mike surprised me this year with a relaxing birthday trip to the Catskill Mountains (what a great idea!). Located in the southeastern section of Upstate New York, this tranquil mountain region is the perfect escape from New York City’s crowds, congestion, and pollution. Mike booked 3 nights at Emerson Resort and Spa, a beautiful property located in a small town called Mt. Tremper.

If you are interested in hiking or nature in general, this is a great vacation destination. We took a drive from the Providence, RI metro area (about 4 hours), and it was such a nice escape from the city congestion for a few days. I imagine it would be the perfect escape from Boston, New York, and other big cities in New England.

Emerson Spa and Resort sign

The scenery intensified in beauty as we got closer to New York. We loved seeing the mountains as we no longer get to see any living in Massachusetts. A while back we lived in Nevada, so it was nice to get back to nature and get lost in the mountains again.

Some of the leaves already started changing color, which made the drive even more beautiful. I imagine this drive would be spectacular at the peak of fall foliage season. The weather forecast for the week was perfect: lower 70’s and sunny.

Fall foliage in Upstate NY
The start of leap peeping season in Upstate NY

Emerson Resort and Spa: Luxury Lodging on Esopus Creek

Mike decided to book us a stay at a local resort known as the Emerson. He chose this property because of its’ rustic surroundings and close proximity to some hikes and attractions we wanted to check out. The resort features 2 different types of accommodations: Inn rooms, which feature more of a classic, artsy vibe and The Lodge, which features a more rustic, log cabin ambiance. The Inn is attached to the main building, which houses the lobby, spa, restaurants, and The Emerson shops.

Main building of the Emerson resort
The beautiful landscaping around the main building
Koi pond at the Emerson resort
I love this gorgeous Koi pond in front of the entance

This is a beautiful artsy property. You will find art sculptures outside in the gardens as well as a small gallery inside featuring the works of local artists. Also, the the landscaping is so beautiful – really a form of art in and of itself.

Buddha statues at the Emerson
Tranquil Buddha statues
Art gallery at the Emerson resort
I love the small lobby gallery

The Emerson is a green property with many eco friendly practices in place. Here is a picture of the solar panels. Also, in the event of a power outage, each building has its’ own generator. They also offer 8 Tesla chargers which is a nice perk.

Solar panels at Emerson Resort and Spa

We stayed at The Lodge which is the more rustic and scenic choice in my opinion. You will have to walk along a short path to get to the main building. However, with views this spectacular, who can complain!? Check out the spectacular mountains in the background. The entire property is so gorgeous. Really, a great place to disconnect and relax and rejuvenate in beautiful natural surroundings.

Walking path at the Emerson Spa and Resort in Mt. Tremper, NY

Luxury cabin rentals

We both enjoyed the log cabin atmosphere and felt that the rustic theme fit perfectly with the serenity and beauty of the area. When you are coming from a busy city, it’s nice to enjoy some rustic surroundings for a few days. Sitting outside on the patio with a cup of coffee each morning listening to the creek was perfect. I even did some yoga outside which is something I could never do back home with all the traffic noise and congestion. Looking around the entire Emerson property, it seems that the Black Bear Lodge cabin we stayed in offers better views of the creek than the Inn rooms.

Bear cabin at the Emerson resort
Our beautiful Bear cabin

This lodge is surrounded by woods, so it is the perfect option for nature lovers. I really loved the creek scenery – the back of the building faces Esopus Creek. Our 2 story cabin themed rental, featured a deck facing the creek (make sure to specify that you want creek views when making a reservation). We got exactly what we were looking for in an early fall getaway: quiet, relaxation, and scenic views.

Deck of Black bear cabin rental at Emerson resort
A view of our deck
Views of the creek at Emerson resort
Gorgeous views of the mountains and creek from the deck

Each morning, we took a stroll down the path to take additional pictures of the creek. I loved getting up early and watching the sun rise through the trees.

Sun rising over Esopus creek at The Lodge at Emerson Resort in the Catskills

Our beautifully decorated cabin featured great amenities such as a gas fireplace, and 2 bathrooms including one with an oversized jacuzzi tub. We were very pleased with the entire place. We especially loved the design – all log cabin themed from the lamps to the bedsheets to the room decor. I really loved all the cute black bear knick knacks including these adorable pillows.

The Lodge bear room at the Emerson
The cozy room with cute decor
Cozy fireplace at The Lodge at the Emerson
I love this cozy fireplace – we brought with the checkers.

Dining Options

There are 3 restaurants on the property: The Phoenix (serving breakfast only), the Catamount (serving dinner only) and the Country Store Cafe (serving quick meals and snacks). We had the chance to test out all 3 during our stay. Update: As of 2025, the Phoenix is now closed.

We had breakfast each morning at The Phoenix, located just a short walk away in the main Inn building. Several times, staff was nice enough to pick us up in the golf cart and escort us to the restaurant. Food was very good. The French Toast is delicious. They also offer an excellent 2 egg, hash brown, and toast special, perfectly cooked and nicely presented.

French Toast at the Emerson Resort
Scrambled egg plate at the Emerson

The Catamount is conveniently located between The Inn and The Lodge. We dined here twice, once inside in the rustic themed dining room, and another time outside on the patio. This restaurant features a causal, cozy atmosphere.

Catamount Restaurant at the Emerson Resort

The patio featured amazing views of the creek. Dining while listening to the flowing creek made for a memorable, relaxing dinner. Dinner both nights was pretty good; I enjoyed the Homestyle Macaroni and Cheese, and the Tomato, Black Bean & Avocado Quesadillas.

Mac and cheese at the Emerson Resort
Delicious mac and cheese!
Turkey Wrap at the Emerson Resort
Mike enjoyed a fresh Turkey wrap
Catamount outdoor patio
What a great view!
Scenic patio at the Catamount
Enjoying a quick pic by the lovely creek

The Country Store Cafe features a selection of quick snacks such as salads, sandwiches, and soups. They also brew Starbucks coffee, and guests receive a complimentary cup each day. They have a fantastic specialty candy counter, similar to Godiva. We couldn’t help coming back each day for another decadent truffle (dozens of different flavors are available). Local honeys, jams, pastas, specialty teas, coffees, and more are available for purchase within the store. Free WI-Fi, a comfortable sitting area, and an outdoor patio are available.

Emerson Country Store in the Catskills mountains

The World’s Largest Kaleidoscope

There is also a small shopping area with a general store, a bath and body shop, a toy chest, and a home and garden shop. One of the highlights in this shopping area is The Kaleidostore, a store dedicated to the Kaleidoscope. You can also watch a show on the World’s Largest Kaleidoscope (this was pretty cool and worth the small fee).

World's largest Kaleidoscope at Emerson Shops in the Catskills

Emerson Spa

The biggest highlight for me at this hotel was the award winning Spa. This beautiful Asian themed spa features beautiful decor and design details. The fitness center came in handy each morning (I still attempt to squeeze in a little bit of exercise on vacation!).

Fitness center at the Emerson Spa and Resort

The workout room was bigger than what you typically find a hotel, complete with a decent sized free weight & cardio selection. The locker rooms feature both a steam room and sauna, which we enjoyed using now that the cooler weather has arrived. The entire spa area, including locker rooms was immaculately clean and well maintained.

Jacuzzi at Emerson Spa in the Catskill mountains

The outdoor jacuzzi isn’t the fanciest, nor biggest, but I enjoyed the views of the creek. The fall weather was perfect for relaxing in a hot tub. My only complaint was the limited hours (it closed at 7pm which seemed a bit early to me).  There are lounger chairs located around the hot tub for those looking for some relaxation and sunbathing.

The fitness center, steam room, jacuzzi, and sauna are all complimentary for all hotel guests and for those receiving a spa treatment. Before your treatment, you can unwind in the Relaxation room. Fresh fruit, a selection of teas, and lemon water are available.

Relaxation room at the Emerson Spa in the Catskills

I usually always pick a Swedish or Deep Tissue massage. This time for my birthday treat from Mike, I wanted to try something new, so I went for an unusual pick: The Indian Head Massage. This 60 minute massage included a pressure point massage to the head, neck, and shoulders (perfect for those on the computer a lot like me!). I also really enjoyed the arm, hand, and wrist massage).

The warm oil applied to my shoulders and neck felt so good, and the oil applied to my scalp doubled as a deep conditioning treatment (my therapist told me to leave it on for 24 hours). It felt weird walking around with oily hair all day, however, I benefited the next day with shiny, more manageable hair (thanks to the sesame oil-coconut oil combination).

Address: The Emerson Spa and Resort is located at 5340 Rt. 28 Mt. Tremper, New York

Lunch in Phoenicia

There are several nice small towns within a 15 mile drive from the resort. Phoenicia was rated one of the one of America’s coolest small towns. The quaint downtown area features a decent variety of restaurants, despite the town’s small population (just around 300).

Brio's Pizzeria in Phoenica, NY

We tried out lunch at Brio’s Pizzeria and Restaurant on a whim as we arrived a bit too early for check in at the resort. I ordered the Black Bean Burrito and Mike had a specialty Grilled Cheese sandwich. We were both satisfied with our meals. The comfortable setting and pleasant waitress added to our satisfaction.

Black Bean burrito at Brio's restaurant in Phoenicia, NY
The Black Bean burrito had just the right amount of spice
Grilled cheese at Brio's restaurant in Phoenicia, NY
Simple, classic grilled cheese

Dinner in Woodstock

Another great town in the region, Woodstock, is well known for the Woodstock Festival and its’ thriving art and music community. For my birthday dinner, we visited a fantastic restaurant called The Bear Cafe. The upscale mountain theme was perfect; it fit right in with both our cabin rental and the feel of the area. I loved the large windows with views of the stream; the setting was so gorgeous. Luckily, we arrived just in time for the last window seat.

Creek view at the Bear Cafe in Woodstock
We arrived just in time to enjoy the fabulous view!

The Bear Cafe features plenty of organic and vegetarian options, which is excellent for me as a vegetarian of more than 20 years. When I saw Pumpkin Ravioli on the menu, I immediately made my choice. Pumpkin ravioli is my favorite dish of all time; unfortunately, it is not very easy to find. This delicious organic dish featured portabella mushrooms, pearl onions, butternut squash, and homemade pumpkin ravioli topped with a delicious creamy sauce. The sauce was perfect – not too heavy, not too light.

Mike also ordered the ravioli and felt the same way. I also ordered the Bear Cafe Salad, which featured mixed dark greens, shaved Parmesan, herbs, shallots, olive oil, and lemon. The combination of ingredients led to a fantastic tasting salad! Even the bread (served with olive oil for dipping) was fantastic. The great food, service, and amazing views would bring me back in a heartbeat if I was to visit this area again.

Salad at The Bear Cafe in Woodstock
A fresh salad to start the meal
Pumpkin ravioli at the Bear Cafe in Woodstock
Amazing pumpkin ravioli!

Hiking in the Catskills

Listed below are a activities I recommend which are located within a reasonable drive of the resort. Any nature lover should take some time to enjoy a few of the wonderful hiking trails in this gorgeous region of the country. Summer is a great time to get out there and explore with all the leaves still on the trees. The fall season is supposed to be spectacular as well – Upstate NY is one of the country’s top leaf peeping destinations. I would love to come back for a fall hiking adventure – our trip was just a bit off.

One of the highlights of our trip was our hike to Kaaterskill Falls, the highest 2 level waterfall in New York. The falls can only be reached via hiking a short 0.5 mile hike. There is a gradual up climb, however, this hike should be suitable for most fitness levels. We got a energizing, but not difficult workout in, which is exactly what we needed on this relaxation trip.

Kaaterskill Falls pic
View of Kaaterskill Falls

I was a bit nervous about spotting a Black Bear on the trail, however, there were enough people around to keep any wildlife away. Bears have been spotted in the area, however, they are more common by the upper falls. (always bring bear spray and make noise while on any trail, just in case!). Be careful not to venture off the path; several hikers have died trying to take their picture by the upper falls.

The trail was not overly crowded; overall, a peaceful, relaxing walk through nature. The falls are stronger after a large rainfall, therefore, planning your trip during the spring months would be the ideal time.

There is a parking lot located on Route 23A. From here, you will follow the signs and walk along the road until you reach the trail. Be careful as a lot of accidents take place here each year! Bastion Falls, another smaller, yet still scenic waterfall, greets you as you begin the trail.

Bastion Falls in upstate NY

The Ashokan Reservoir

Ashokan Reservoir in Upstate NY

Ashokan Reservoir, located in Ulster County, provides drinking water for New York City. There is a 1.5 mile paved path around the reservoir, which provides amazing views of the Catskill Mountains. We decided to take the 10 minute journey from the Emerson one afternoon to take in the beautiful mountain views. It was definitely worth it – we really loved the scenery here.

Deer on the road in Upstate New York
We spotted a deer on the way over – fun times for city dwellers!
Trail at Ashokan Reservoir
Great mountain views from the trail!

Walkway over the Hudson

Walkway over the Hudson in New York

The Walkway over the Hudson, which opened in 2009, is the longest pedestrian bridge in the world. This is another great daytrip I recommend planning if you are into history. The path is just under 3 miles RT, making it acceptable for any fitness level. We saw walkers, joggers, and bikers along the path. For any history buffs out there, you can read all about the history of the bridge building via several informative plaques.

Bridge views from Walkway over the Hudson
Photo opp at the Walkway over the Hudson in New York

I loved the tranquil views of the Catskill mountains and Hudson River. This walkway is frequently voted as one of the best places in New York for fall foliage. Unfortunately we were just a few weeks too early! Nevertheless, we still enjoyed our peaceful walk. The bridge is open everyday from 7:00am until dusk. Restrooms, picnic tables, and food are available at the start. Free street parking is available at 87 Haviland Rd. Highland, NY.

Overall, a great trip: We would love to come back in the fall!

Overall, Mike and I loved our trip to this beautiful part of Upstate NY. There is so much more to see and do in the area that we are planning a return trip sometime this fall or winter. We would love to take a scenic train rides (closed on weekdays).

Ulster County is also home to the Sleepy Hollow Headless Horseman Haunted Hayride, which has been featured on the Travel Channel as one of the top Halloween attractions. As a Halloween buff, I purposely seek out the country’s best attractions, so this is high up on my bucket list.

As a note, please check with the resort, spa, local restaurants, and any other attractions for current hours/pricing which is subject to change at any time.